What else do I miss? The food (I don’t mean just restaurants), actually going out to buy food at markets and shops. It is inexpensive and high quality, even in the supermarket. And there are some things that always taste better – olive oil, butter, cheese, yoghurt, veal and chocolate to name a few.

There are a few things I won’t miss. Some of the shopping hours are archaic. I can understand it in Spain, where dinner starts at 10pm and you need a siesta in the afternoon, but not in downtown Alba. UHT milk in my morning coffee – yuk. The toll booths on the autostrada – it would be ok if the money was used to actually improve the country’s roads but, being privately owned, it actually makes a few very rich people even more rich.

But the one thing about Italy that I won’t miss is the storage of wine. In Italy, the land of wine, the storage of wine is, for the most part, appalling. So much so that the oldest bottles I enjoy whilst travelling usually come from the cellars of the wineries we work with. I won’t pay for older wines anymore unless I’ve seen the cellar of the restaurant or wine shop or been there before.

On this trip, in Barolo for example, I purchased a few current release wines that I knew had just hit the shelf. There they were, proudly standing upright alongside previous vintages. Why do so many enoteche and ristorante in Italy stand their bottles upright? When it gets bottled at the winery, it gets laid down for sometimes two years before being packaged for sale. So why then stand the bottle upright on a shelf for sometimes the same period, or even longer? One hot summer day, let alone the fluctuating seasons, is enough to ruin the wine.

It was the same story in Panzano in Chianti where the local enoteca , packed to the roof with a great selection that included lots of older bottles, stood every single bottle upright. In fact the most prized bottles had their very own lamp to shine on the labels!

I think the winery owners and winemakers themselves need to be more vigilant about how their wines are presented post sale. A consumer that unknowingly purchases a badly stored bottle is likely to blame the wine and not buy again. There must be millions of bottles stored this way around the country and I believe its an issue more serious than cork taint.

To ship our wines to Australia, they are stored at our climate controlled warehouse in La Spezia, then packed into a reefer (refrigerated) and, after arriving, they are unpacked into our climate controlled warehouse in Melbourne. We take the storage of our wine seriously, whether it be a container of Barolo or Montepulciano. Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi from Chianti’s Rocca di Montegrossi said it best during his recent visit to Australia, “my wines here taste exactly as they do at the winery.”

This year we really stepped it up, with 360kg of Roma tomatoes – double our usual quantity.  When I tell my friends in Italy that we are making tomato sauce, they reply “why don’t you buy it from the shop like we do”! Its hard work, but the reward comes every time you open a bottle throughout the year. And around my house, pasta con pomodoro is on high rotation.

Making good sauce is a little like winemaking. Firstly, you need cold beer and lots of it! Secondly, you have to have great fruit. This years tomatoes were expertly sourced from an exceptional grower in Tatura and displayed all the hallmarks of a great vintage.  The fruit was in excellent condition with perfect physiological ripeness and we concentrated the pulp with some Amarone style drying – using the finest polystyrene boxes to store the tomatoes in a warm yet well ventilated garage to concentrate their sugar levels.

The sorting table is where it all starts, and here we are more rigourous than Gaja. Anything that doesn’t make the grade, we sell to the local cooperative. With miminimal intervention, the saucing begins (gravity feed and no pumps). At Pomodoro Brothers, we are more natural than Frank Cornelisen, preferring not to add anything (apart from a few basil leaves).

Finally, the harvest is over for another year and we can honestly declare a 2012 a five star tomato vintage. Buon appetito!

Poggio di Sotto is one of Montalcino’s cult wineries with a tiny production that is popular on both sides of the Atlantic. Following an exhaustive search for the perfect location, Piero Palmucci purchased a few hectares in Castelnuovo dell’Abate in 1989. As part of his uncompromising quest to make great Sangiovese, Piero collaborated with the University of Milan to select the best clones for the various soil types. Biodynamic viticulture, high vine density, extremely low yields and extended cask ageing combine to produce what many refer to as the Burgundy of Brunello.  Piero enthusiastically supported the creation of sub zones for Montalcino, saying “I would love for Castelnuovo dell’Abate to become an official sub-appellation so consumers can know that this Brunello is made in one of the sunniest parts of Montalcino where sangiovese matures perfectly”.

Late last year, with no descendants, Piero sold his beloved estate to Claudio Tipa of nearby Colle Massari and Grattamacco. Claudio has no plans to change any aspect of Poggio di Sotto.  Our first shipment of Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino (both from 2006) has just arrived.

How we came to know about the wines of Josephus Mayr is a good story. Visiting Franz Haas for the first time (and my first time to Alto Adige) we dined at restaurant in the mountains where Franz insisted we select wines from ‘another’ winery. I remember the meal so well. To start, the local ‘wine soup’, made with Traminer, was sensational with Hofstatters Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer. Lamb, some of the best I’ve ever eaten, was served with an incredible Lagrein and, to finish, we sipped Castel Juval’s sublime apricot Grappa in the bar. It was truly a great meal but afterwards, I lost my tasting book and couldn’t remember the name of the Lagrein grower. Fast forward to 2012 after years of describing the wine to numerous people, we found it: Erbhof Unterganzner Josephus Mayr Lagrein Riserva will be arriving late March.

Established in 1629, Josephus is the tenth generation Mayr to run this family winery, located at the mouth of the Eisack valley in Bolzano. The Südtirol, as the region is called in German (the main language spoken) has developed a reputation for great aromatic white wines, although the majority of plantings are red varieties. Lagrein, related to neighbouring Trentino’s Marzemino and Teroldego, is the main red grape, excelling in the warm climate of the Bolzano basin where the porphyritic mineral rich soil warms easily in the spring and permits ideal drainage. The vineyards are planted on a modified pergola system to benefit from the breezes (both Continental and Mediterranean) that run through the valley and, even at this Alpine latitude, it is warm enough to grow figs, olives and citrus fruit.

Josephus is a quietly spoken gentle man that thinks deeply about his role in carrying the family tradition and the wines he makes.  Together with his wife Barbara they craft outstanding Lagrein in several styles, from Kretzer (Rosato) through to an Amarone-inspired version, Lamarein, of which he makes a few barrels.  Lagrein is an appealing, approachable variety that combines the colour and depth of Syrah with Alpine freshness and minerality. However, the drawback to the wines of the region is that very little leaves the Südtirol and finding the wines in other parts of Italy, let alone receiving an allocation for Australia, is hard enough.

Lagrein Riserva is inky purple, concentrated without being heavy and showing plum, chocolate and  tobacco with a little spice and refreshing acidity. With age, the youthful fruitiness gives way to more earthy notes that make it an incredibly versatile with food.

Elio Ottin is the rising star of Val d’Aosta, the smallest of Italy’s regions located in The Alps bordering France and Switzerland.  Elio, a passionate farmer, was selling his fruit to the local cooperative (very common in these parts due to the small land holdings) when he decided to vinify his own wines, beginning in 2007.

The region, home to the highest vineyards in Europe, is truly ‘viticoltura de montagna’.  Winters here are long and freezing and the summers, although warm, are short. Working the land is incredibly labour intensive: individual land holdings are small, traditionally mixed use, and most vineyards are terraced on the steep hillsides. Elio’s four hectares are planted on the south facing hills of Aosta, Saint-Christophe and Quart at about 600 metres.

Our first wine, and Elio’s inaugural Tre Bicchieri winner, is his 2010 Petite Arvine. A complex nose with typical mountain freshness and notes of hay, honey, citrus and hawthorn blossom. For an oak-free wine, the palate shows considerable body and flavour. In Aosta, it would pair with cheese, sausage, ham, veal and other robust alpine foods.  Locally, we think it goes particularly well with shellfish and seafood.

These are a few of my favourite (new) things.

Tom Hyland at Learn Italian Wines puts Grattamacco 2008 (just arrived here) into his top wines of the year for 2011.

And, over at On the Wine Trail in Italy, Italian Wine Guy Alfonso Cevola visits Bellavista in Franciacorta.

Happy reading

Most of the wineries that they started with back then still form the basis of what we do today: Bellavista, Pieropan, Speri, Jermann, Bortoluzzi, Bollini, Marcarini, Conterno Fantino, Monte Antico, Brancaia and Poggerino. In our 18th year, the portfolio will grow to 60 wineries from 16 of Italy’s twenty regions and we anticipate each vintage as keenly as we did the first.

Italian wine has come a long way since 1994. The dark days of raffia wrapped Chianti bottles and jug Soave are long gone, but there is still a long way to go. Quality wise, the wines are there, but the market perception is not. If I ever work out why, I’ll let you know, but Italian wines don’t yet enjoy the credibility of their neighbours across the Alps. Every day, I view Italy as a learning experience with hundreds of grape varieties and regions to discover, from the local wine of a small village in the middle of nowhere to the grandi cru. Its a great job and the working relationship we share is unique. Then there are the relationships with the growers themselves, whose dedication to making authentic wine is inspiring and their generosity humbling.

Locally though, how times have changed. In 1994, importers imported the wine, wholesalers distributed the wine and retailers sold the wine.  That model is now completely on its head as the various streams of business cross over.  Its a new age and things change fast, which is why it is good to look back at those wineries that have been with us for the journey. Overnight success right?! The wide selection of Italian wines available in Australia now is staggering, given the scale of our market in comparison to the rest of the world. It is too much for sure, but now everyone wants a piece of Italy.

In my tasting group last week, we tasted a selection of cheap (under $25) wines from the South of Italy. There was a red and a white wine (about $10 retail each) that was, to me, rather ordinary. Others around the table thought they were good value for money, but I struggle to see the commercial point in shipping such wines. A customer spending 10 bucks is not looking for anything other than spending 10 bucks, whether it be something Italian or Australian. So why does the supplier buy it? Because their heart is in Italian wine? Nah, its simply a commodity to boost the bottom line.

The wine business, to me, seems to be heading in two directions. Its a two speed economy, just like other industries are experiencing, and the problem seems to be in clarifying the differences to the consumer. What’s the difference between Pieropan’s Soave and one from the co-op? Plenty, but getting the message across is a different beast, especially when people are buying solely on price.

This is not a complaint, just a comment on where things are at. I’m lucky to have one of the best jobs in the world, working with great people every day.

We recently discovered an old lift-out of Epicure from 1994 and I love this photo of Michael and Virginia. Michael looks all Yale professor-like with his bushy growth and Gin as if she has just stepped out of the Museum of Modern Art. Yep, its a great job.

FRANZ HAAS in Alto Adige, from Franz Haas

Alaskan Salmon, fished by Franz’ cousin, Champagne Sous Bois Billecart Salmon

Soup with gnocchetti, Pinot Bianco 2009 Franz Haas

Fillet of beef baked in bread crust, Barbaresco Martinenga 1999 Marchese di Gresy

Panettone Perbellini and biscotti from Franz’ mother, Moscato d’Asti 2010 Saracco

PODERI COLLA in Piedmont, from Pietro Colla

It’s common knowledge around our office that Bruna Colla is one of the finest cooks in the Langhe. A meal at the Collas is always a treat, but you better pack a spare stomach because its so good, an extra helping simply cannot be refused. The wine choices here will of course be Piedmontese, coming from a cellar stocked with more than a few gems from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. That reminds me, don’t drink the 64’mate – save it for our Easter lunch!

Antipasti

Pat di fegato e di selvaggina, Flan di topinambur con fonduta

Cotechino con pur di patate, Zampone con lenticchie

Primi

Agnolotti al plin burro e salvia and Agnolotti in brodo

Secondi

Cappone bollito

Dolce

Panettone and  Bonet dla nona

Frutta secca, mandarini

POGGIO ARGENTIERA in Tuscany, from Gianpaolo Paglia

This year Gianpaolo is having a big family Christmas in Justine’s home town in the UK. It kicks off “in a traditional rave in the nave at the local abbey, when Justine will sing ‘Messiah’ with the choir. On the 24th, my Italian parents will be joining us and Mamma will bake lasagne to enjoy with a bottle of Capatosta Morellino di Scansano 2009.”

On Christmas day, the children will graze on chocolate and sweets with the odd crisp or two for dietary variety. The rest of us will have scrambled egg and smoked salmon for breakfast. Us adults will have an aperitif with a glass of Donnhoff Norheimer Kirscheck Riesling Spatlese 2002, and turkey with Bellamarsilia Morellino di Scansano 2010 (voted by The  Independent as the ‘best wine to go with turkey’). We’ll also have venison roasted with juniper and a glazed ham with Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollieres 1999 Nicolas Potel.  Christmas pudding with Lalicante vino da tavola passito should send us into a calorie surfeit  slumber until boxing day, when we’ll have a good long walk followed by  a cold table of the ham (revisited),
Melton Mowbray pork pie, walnuts, cheese, more cheese, homemade bread and a small cherry tomato to share.”

“A nice bottle of 20 yrs old Tawny Port (to be selected) will also accompany the end of meals. And of course some Champagne La Grand Dame Veuve Cliquot 1999.”

Grazie Franco, it was an honour to be asked.

Interest in Nebbiolo is growing every year although, somewhat frustatingly, the wines don’t often get the credit they deserve compared to their cousins across the Alps. I developed the Barolo Bar concept purely to educate and enlighten the consumer about one of the world’s great wines, and wine regions. These are wines that are often misunderstood and, in the 2007 vintage, we have the perfect opportunity to show people a softer side of the region’s famous tannins.

The event will be managed by Sommeliers Australia, and some of Melbourne’s leading Sommeliers will be on hand to guide you through the selection. Special thanks must go to Simon Hartley who has generously donated the space, and then also to the many contributing wine importers who have provided their wines at near cost price. This generous gesture will enable us to serve the wines at a bargain price, and each will be poured as 90ml servings.  Barolo by the glass in any Australian restaurant is rare, but 30 of them is extraordinary. Some of the producers on offer include Voerzio, Gaja, A. Conterno, G. Conterno, Marcarini, Chiara Boschis, L. Pira, Massolino, Ratti, La Spinetta and Mauro Veglio to name a few.

A limited number of tickets are available from Sommeliers Australia and, because only 1 bottle of each wine will be available each night, booking a ticket early gives you the best chance to select from the full range before they sell out.

Barolo Bar

Wednesday March 14th, Thursday 15th and Friday 16th – 5pm till late

Bellavista Social Club above Becco, 11-25 Crossley Street, Melbourne

entry $15 per person

We look forward to seeing you there.

Salute

Eating truffles is a strange experience in that so much of the flavour is in the smell, and it invades your every pore. The generous shavings atop these very simple dishes can turn a humble fried egg into a dish of beauty. No complicated michelin starred cooking required here, just take a dish made in every home in this region, and shave away.

Given that a meal at one of my favourites, Sosta Cucina, is cheaper and more convenient than an airfare to Milan, we heeded the call when Maurice told us of his new delivery. You can take your pick here of shavings on risotto, tagliolini or egg and polenta. At $11 per gram, I suggest 4-5 grams to really enjoy them.

start here

pre-shave weigh-in

shave

post shave weigh-in

8.05 grams of shaved truffle later (for two) and this is one of the best dishes you will ever eat. And you must, absolutely must enjoy this with a glass of Nebbiolo.

Following the sale of her family’s Borgogno winery, she has recently been joined by her brother Giorgio, and together, they have acquired new vineyards in some of the regions most prized crus. In 2009, Chiara purchased part of the Conterni vineyard in Monforte, which came with old vines of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo that Chiara will be replanting, parcel by parcel, over the next few years. A recent re-drawing of some of the Barolo boundaries has also resulted in Conterni being re-classified as Mosconi. Chiara’s first vintage of Nebbiolo from this estate was 2009 and she chose to release it as Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo. Langhe Nebbiolo by name (and price!), baby Barolo by structure. The first few cases went to my cellar, and there are a few left.

But it gets better…..with Giorgio on board, this sister-brother team have secured parcels of Liste (Barolo), Ravera (Monforte) and Gabutti (Serralunga), with plans to mature the wine in botti as a multi vineyard blend. This is a return to tradition in more ways than one, as blending from several vineyards, and/or communes, was once the norm in Barolo. Click here to read the blog from David Berry Green, Chiara’s UK importer and Barolo resident (yes, I’m more than a little jealous) and listen to Chiara explain the philosophy behind the botti and the new vineyards.